Monday, October 30, 2006

am i the only one who finds my school lunches infinitely interesting?



i should also tell you how they've been improving my oral hygiene. when i first came to japan i was a bit put off by when, where and how people saw fit to brush their teeth. for example, at work while standing at my desk chatting with me about the next class’ lesson. it just seemed like something people should do in their private time, or at least over some receptacle like a sink. and they would go for marathon scrubbing sessions. well, it only took a little getting used to. you quickly learn to back up a bit to avoid spittle spray. but now, perhaps thanks to the toothbrush song in elementary school, i find myself doing the same thing. after eating, all the kids grab their cups and brushes and go to town while some folky japanese song instructs them…’brush right, right, right, right, right…now left, left, left, left, left…’ even at middle school, where there is no organized tooth brushing session, i’ve taken up the good habit. starting the process at my desk [i can’t believe the kids have no qualms about getting right up in my grill while i’m scrubbing my teeth], i’ve learned that if you don’t use excessive amounts of toothpaste, you can massage your gums and teeth for days before having to make your way to the sink [the kitchen sink in the break area that is] to spit. hope i don’t scour all the enamel off…

Friday, October 27, 2006

bizzy bees

as we continue busying ourselves in the hopes of making the absolute most out of our last bit of time here, let me update you on some travel plans.
this friday is a national holiday…culture day i think. liz, carrie and i are gonna road trip to nagoya. we expect it should only take about 5 or 6 hours, of course we don’t have any real directions. but, unlike the sendai trip, we do have a hotel and some tentative plans. i’m hoping i can stave off my approaching cold...
then we’ve got a doozy planned for xmas. december 23 we’re heading to new delhi, india. we’re still working on in-country travel, trying to find the cheapest transport that will maximize our ability to enjoy multiple locales. india is a huge country meaning we’ll have to fly and train quite a bit. our tentative schedule has us heading from delhi north to the holy city of varanasi, then flying way down south to bombay, aka mumbai, for a few days. then it’s an overnight train down the coast to the beautiful beaches of the hippie/party mecca called goa. we’ll have to train back to mumbai in order to catch a flight back to the capital. we’ll have the last 3 or 4 days to explore new delhi, one of which will be consumed by a day trip to agra to see the taj mahal.
the more research i do, the more i’m convinced this isn’t going to be a relaxing, get away from the stress of obligation and drone of everyday life kind of vacation. i expect it’ll be gritty and challenging and disturbing and uplifting. i’ll undoubtedly experience a range of emotions in reaction to the social situation there; poverty and sub-standard living conditions tempered by hospitality and graciousness...rich history and a tumultuous past colored by the hopefulness of a struggle to rise up. i’m excited about seeing the true india, which until now has just been the kitsch decorating my favorite restaurants and the setting for my romanticized tales. i’m excited about the prospect of more accurately understanding my circumstances and life after examining it through a completely different frame of comparison than i’ve ever experienced before.

Wednesday, October 25, 2006









ThE rEcEnt ADveNtUreS oF lIZ and tIFFaNy...


Liz and Tiffany visit the convenience store [a.k.a. conbini]…






Liz and Tiffany travel to Sendai, the largest city in northern Honshu, for Lizzy’s birthday. Lots of food [WE ATE INDIAN!! YEA!! Only the 2nd time in more than 2 years. YEA!], dance clubs, kangaroo boxing, coffee and fun.


I demolished the biggest calzone ever...




Even the evil uni-brow couldn’t spell victory for this roo…




Liz and Tiffany attempt to learn the art of ninjitsu…


Liz and Tiffany are sad they failed at becoming ninjas…




Liz and Tiffany hit up a sake matsuri [festival] downtown.


I was a bit nostalgic because the lively affair took place on the street right in front of my old apartment, whereas I’d driven 25 minutes from my new home amongst the rice paddies and then had to struggle with parking.


But never fear…sake quiets discontent. It also makes pictures go a little screwy and inflates one's sense of strength…





Liz and Tiffany return to their favorite karaoke haunt. Because of our recent moves, it had been a while since we’d partied here. Glad to see not much had changed.

Monday, October 16, 2006

at lunch...

the kids at middle school relentlessly pick on each other over the pettiest things. there's the obvious weight, attractiveness, dorkiness issues, but you're also a target if you don't spread your margarine on your bread correctly or if your handwriting stinks. today's victim...kengo kun. at lunch everyone piled their broccoli on his plate until you could barely see the tiny kid behind a mountain of green. he's in that awkward stage so he takes a lot of crap. [it was terribly cute to watch him try so hard during the sports festival. he danced like an epileptic in a strobe light factory and, even if you'd offered him a million bucks, he simply couldn't keep in time with the march.] today i was secretly wishing some of the kids would give me their broccoli too. no luck. the other options on my plate were doughy udon noodles with watery soup or kozakana and almond salad.
kozakana means baby fish...they're deep fried whole and don't taste all together gross, they just leave you with a filmy, sardine flavored mouth that doesn't turn me on.

luckily most school lunches, or kyushoku, escape being classified with adjectives such as watery and filmy. they're usually well-planned, filling, traditional japanese meals, i.e. lunches that you could never get american kids to consume. unfortunately we sometimes part ways over the lunch ladies liberal use of eggs [from any of a number of animals; chicken, fish, quail...] and tiny, whole, worm-like fishy things, similar to what's pictured above, that they sneak into the most unlikey dishes.

i'm not exactly sure what to do about all the teasing and harassment. my natural instinct is to rush to the rescue of the victim, but as i've seen before, that has the potential to leave them subjected to a different kind of taunting. i often try to rationalize with the bullies [c'mon, you know it really doesn't matter if you put your margarine on bread in dollops or streaks...] but once they have the attention of other students, their momentum is hard to stop. it calls to mind…

yasegaeru
makeru na
kore ni ari

a haiku by famed poet issa which is often translated as

skinny, feeble frog
don’t give up the fight
i stand by your side

i’d ran across the poem online and was touched; first by it’s simplicity but depth, and secondly by the story surrounding its creation. issa was born in kashiwabara, in the north of present-day nagano prefecture. he was a devout follower of buddhism which inspired in him empathy with small animals that often became the subject of the more than 20,000 haikus he penned.
there’s a famous temple where issa stayed when he visited what was then known as the edo area. next to this temple, entenji, is a small pond where issa witnessed frog sumo, or the ritual fights between males over females for mating.
several weeks after discovering the haiku i found myself standing at the edge of a small pond near obuse, nagano when it occurred to me that i was staring at the inspiration for the poem that had so captivated me. it was a very strange emotional moment. and although it wasn’t mating season, frogs abounded…and not just the cold-blooded croaking kind. shelves lining inner and outer walls of the temple were adorned with all sizes and shapes of amphibian effigies.



luckily all my school lunches aren’t seasoned with taunting and teasing. at every school i rotate eating in homeroom classes with the kids. this provides some unstructured time for conversation and general screwing around. in middle school, the students are starting to develop the shyness that will haunt them, as it does so many adults in this society. it’s unnerving and disappointing when someone looks you in the eye, as if to acknowledge you are addressing them, and then walks away without speaking. others refuse to entertain my conversation by waling protests against english [although i usually posit my inquiries in japanese since that tactic most often illicits a response]. but some others are interested in testing me; my tolerance for ridiculous questions or my japanese language ability. the first year students are remarkably warmer than the third years. this trend continues on for the even younger children. elementary school is definitely the most exciting. the kids are eager to talk and climb all over you and feel your hair and eyelashes and poke you in the butt, literally. it doesn’t take much, other than being foreign thus different, to be elevated to star status there. recently i followed the lead of the other students in trying to collapse my milk carton as much as humanly possible before throwing it away. apparently i figured out a new way to fold it into the tiniest of tiny squares. the kids were so mesmerized that i spent 30 minutes teaching everyone and it has now become the coolest, hippest origami around.



elementary school also rocks cause grub time is followed directly by recess. that’s my play time too [note that i didn't say rest time]. i’ve been able to rekindle my love of jumping rope and those horizontal iron bars that you flip around using your belly as a fulcrum. my great-granddaddy used to call it ‘skinning the cat’. the yards at these schools also double as farms, with chickens and goats running around, mostly trying to avoid being tormented by the kids. there are games of devil tag, dodge ball, soccer and some interesting group activities whose governing rules i haven't yet been able to discern. then there’s the bike rack out back lined with unicycles [some are even big people sizes!!]. i haven't quite mastered these odd vehicles yet, but luckily there are about 700 young experts eager to help teach me.

Wednesday, October 04, 2006

the girls vs. yokohama

japan's most famous china town...



making ourselves nearly sick at cosmo world...


cb scarin' the children...


we tried to board a karaoke, all you can eat and drink river cruise extravaganza to no avail...


you know you're getting old when you go to the club and it's not even open yet. what?! it was 11! naturally, we killed time with a photo shoot.


after hours and hours of food, drinks, karaoke and mischief. what do you mean the japanese boys are intimidated by our straight forward personalities and our outrageous behavior?


they've got these photobooths in japan where you don props, costumes and your craziest faces.



then you scoot around the side of the machine to a computer screen where you can customize your pics...digitally writing, stamping and drawing all over them before they pop out of the machine as a page of stickers. it's unbelievably fun...

for explanation purposes only...no idea who these people are...


we stumbled upon this huge hole that looked like a cross between an ancient lock for raising and lowering ships and the background from an m.c. escher drawing. the walls were lined with staircases that appeared and disappeared into nowhere.


what a perfect setting for, u guessed it, a photo shoot!!



we realize how ridiculous we are for gorging ourselves on 'american' food, but in lil' ole joetsu we rarely have the chance. yes, on a 4-day vacation, we 2x at t.g.i fridays, 2x at subway [yeah for cold cuts!] and at the american grill restaurant, whose california burger w/ bacon and avocado is a force to be reckoned with. as if i hadn't had enough...


a big thanks to masa, aka samurai slasher, for letting us crash at his place in machida that friday.
and thanks to lizzy for the couple of pics.

Sunday, October 01, 2006

only the lonely...

so i was discussing the etymology of the term 'go dutch' with a friend, which inevitably lead to a discussion of the term 'dutch wife.' in japan, that phrase is used to refer to a blow-up sex doll. i was doing serious online research to find out what exactly this had to do with the netherlands when i found this site. i was laughing so hard i nearly wet myself. this link is not safe for work and if you have any conservative tendencies it'd probably be best if you just skipped on down the blog to read about some other adventures.
click here for some funny, funny stuff...