refreshment

this was just the kinda day i needed. after a recent bout of homesickishness, it’s nice to be reminded of all the history, beauty and unexplored territory that surrounds me here. carrie and i had a monday off as we’d worked the weekend sports festivals at our respective schools. a friend came in from tokyo and we hit the road in search of cultural gems that we’d yet to uncover in our corner of the countryside.



first off to kasugayama, a nationally designated “important historic place” that’s past centers around Uesugi Kenshin, a powerful japanese warlord during the sengoku era, seen here immortalized in bronze. i thought his head looked way too small for his body. maybe he had a napolean complex that motivated him to be such a fierce and successful fighter…


at the base of the mountain sits rinsenji temple, where kenshin studied. it is purported to retain the appearance it had when he was alive…minus the tacky red flags i presume.




then we hiked towards the site of kasugayama castle. although ‘yama’ means mountain in japanese, we weren’t exactly prepared for the lengthy climb in skirts, flip flops and all. in some ways we were well rewarded for our efforts…


some fabulous lookouts that revealed joetsu to me in a whole new way. the view made me want to grab somebody for a romantic picnic and a hot make out session overlooking the city. unfortunately, nothing remains now of the castle itself. there are clearings, rock formations and scars in the land though that do attempt to tell the story of the place [with the help of some poorly translated, strategically situated signs]. some diversionary routes and canal like moats are easy to pick out of the natural landscape, but other aspects of the castle require a lot more imagination.
the castle was home to uesugi kenshin; born in 1530, he became lord of kasugayama at the age of 19. at that time, the area was called echigo and he managed to subdue or unite, depending on what you read, every part of what is now niigata prefecture and bring it under his control. he later became the chief of all the samurai in the kanto area (eastern japan). “having passed through an era of wars like a gale-force wind,” he died in 1578 at the age of 49.

then we traced the coast heading south through itoigawa and noh until we found an island i’d noticed a few times and had been meaning to explore.



as legend goes [if i can use that term loosely to mean rumors circulated among the foreigners], long ago a pair of famous lovers ended their relationship here and now any couple who crosses over to the island is doomed to part ways.



the views from the tip top of the huge rock were stunning.





the air was cool and fragrant and i was relaxed. it only took a moment to reassure me that my last 11 months in this place won’t just be tolerable, but necessary in the quest to continue collecting experiences like this.